To whoever pointed me at xfwm, THANK YOU. It's exactly what I've been looking for since Metacity. XFCE doesn't float my boat, but the window manager is just plain sweet!
OK, question for you, since we seem to be in exactly the same position.
I want to try xfwm, too, but I'm having troubles.
I tried going to Fedora Menu -> Preferences -> More preferences -> Sessions, telling it to not restart metacity if it dies, then I did 'killall metacity && xfwm4', which did start xfwm4, but I had a problem -- when I used the pager to switch to a different virtual desktop, the panels disappeared. How do I tell xfwm that the panels are supposed to be on all workspaces?